MEN AT WAR

Loaded, the first lifestyle title aimed at regular lads, revolutionised the world of men’s magazines. But its top-selling position has been taken by FHM and its babe factor, Anne-Marie Crawford says.

Loaded, the first lifestyle title aimed at regular lads,

revolutionised the world of men’s magazines. But its top-selling

position has been taken by FHM and its babe factor, Anne-Marie Crawford

says.



Talk to certain press buyers and they love to tell you about the time

that Tom Moloney, the chief executive at the publishing giant, Emap,

said men’s magazines would never sell.



Moloney allegedly made this remark back in 1990. Remind him of it now

and he coyly claims not to recall the context in which it was made. ’I

don’t really remember saying it but if I did, it was just a bit of

fun.



Hindsight is a wonderful thing,’ he says wryly.



Today, with the men’s market enjoying 400 per cent real growth on the

back of pounds 30 million worth of cover sales, and with Emap publishing

the best-selling monthly magazine, FHM, men’s magazine publishing is a

wonderful thing.



But rewind to the media environment of the late 80s, and it’s clear that

Moloney had a point. In 1990, the men’s magazine market was a different

proposition from what it is today. Back then, the sector was dominated

by the likes of the Face, Arena and the music bible, Q.



Opinion is divided as to which title lit the touch paper. According to

Paul Mukherjee, head of press at the Network, Q kicked it all off in

1986.



Moloney agrees: ’Q was the first stylish title to come out aggressively

and make a lifestyle statement about its readers.’



For Andy McDuff, a publishing director of Loaded, it was Arena. ’Arena

was the first true men’s magazine but it was a product of its time.’ For

’of its time’ read late 80s, trendy, slightly gay and rather niche. GQ

and Esquire epitomised the Thatcher years in that they were



aspirational and targeted an Armani-clad generation for whom greed and

gloss were gods.



According to Philippa Stuart, the head of press at Motive, these titles

were just a bit too intellectual and ’up their own arses’ to really

appeal to the majority of ordinary blokes. Richard Britton, the press

director at CIA Medianetwork, agrees: ’GQ and Esquire were aimed at a

specific, slightly older audience. They were high-brow and fashion

conscious.’ By their very nature, these magazines excluded large swathes

of younger, less affluent men. They didn’t reflect the lives of their

readers and were becoming out of tune with the times.



Of course, thousands of men were reading special interest magazines

during this period - as they still do. But that also meant the market

and, therefore, the readership, was highly segmented and a less

attractive proposition to mainstream advertisers.



Cars, hi-fi, fishing, shooting, music, sex: men with these interests

were served well by existing titles, but there was nothing that could be

termed truly ’lifestyle’, or that would particularly appeal to

mainstream advertisers. Men in large numbers remained an untapped

audience. ’Six years ago it was difficult putting a schedule together to

reach men,’ Stuart says.



So what happened to revolutionise the market to such an extent that the

two best-selling magazines, Loaded and FHM, between them now sell almost

three quarters of a million copies and men’s magazines have become

coveted advertising vehicles?



According to Moloney, it’s because men’s magazines now manage to speak

to, and make a connection with, a much larger audience.



McDuff agrees: ’In the early 90s we did research that revealed most of

the magazines out there were irrelevant to many men.’



IPC’s answer to the problem, of course, was Loaded, which made its first

appearance in 1994. No one would deny that Loaded took the market by the

scruff of its neck, but there were other factors at work which meant it

was no longer regarded as ’poofy’ for a man to buy a magazine. Research

indicates that over the past decade, men have gradually become more

interested in themselves and their changing role in society. According

to Moloney, they have developed an interest in many of the elements that

have driven women’s magazines, such as how they relate to their lover,

friends, boss and even their own bodies - interests that have all helped

fuel the growth of lifestyle titles. ’Traditionally, men didn’t have

that angst. Their attitude was ’I’m a man - I drink, I fart, I exist’.

This is a new phenomenon,’ Moloney says.



A recent Mintel report notes some of these social changes, remarking

that ’men are more prepared to speak more freely on personal matters

such as grooming and are more ready to express feelings’.



It also points out that with lower/later rates of marriage and higher

divorce rates, a growing proportion of the total population lives in

single person households. Therefore, it is increasingly likely that men

will experience several periods of living on their own during their

lives and are likely to turn to a magazine to help them feel

’connected’.



A more mature market will enable advertisers to target male consumers in

a host of different categories such as white goods, as well as the

clothing, drinks and sports advertisers that currently crowd the pages

of men’s magazines.



Just as importantly, the growth in ABC1 men who constitute the core

readership of men’s lifestyle magazines has helped fuel the growth of

this sector.



In 1991, ABC1 men made up 22.8 per cent of the population, while in 1996

the figure was 25.5 per cent. The forecast for next year is 26.5 per

cent.



Mukherjee has noted other important social changes: ’Male dominance in

society has been challenged and men are no longer as secure in what they

think. Many people in the late 20th century, particularly men, have

believed they can buy themselves an advantage. Their expectations have

changed considerably and magazines tell them how to buy that advantage.

It’s about having the right clothing, looking groomed and being seen

eating and drinking in the right places.’



Just flick open a copy of FHM magazine and you’ll see exactly what he

means. It’s full of lists: ’Ten ways to get a woman in the sack, ten

ways to tell if your girlfriend is cheating on you, ten things you

should have done by the age of 30’ and so on. The lists are endless.



If Q and Arena started the juggernaut rolling, Loaded has ensured it

will reach maximum velocity. IPC launched Loaded after exhaustive

research into what 15- to 34-year-old men wanted in a magazine and it

constitutes a milestone in men’s publishing. Loaded is relevant,

unpretentious, glossy, different and funny. As Britton says, ’Loaded

broke the mould and made everything possible in one magazine.’



Arguably, every other title has bought into this approach in one form or

another, and all appear to have enjoyed success (not a single men’s

title was down in the latest round of ABCs).



Although FHM recently overtook Loaded to become the top-selling male

monthly title, there are definite differences between the two titles and

some buyers argue Loaded is the more enduring brand.



FHM’s success appears to be largely based on ’sex sells’. Whereas Loaded

will happily devote its cover to the likes of Dennis Leary or Chris

Tarrant, FHM will almost always feature a scantily-clad female. Many new

titles are taking the sex approach. For example, Stuff, Dennis

Publishing’s gadget magazine, is full of references to babes and

bikinis.



As the market matures, it will begin to segment and there is evidence

this is already beginning to happen. Conde Nast’s GQ spun off GQ Active,

IPC launched a men’s food magazine, Eat Soup, last September and Emap is

experimenting with a men’s fashion supplement.



In general, advertisers have welcomed with open arms the opportunity to

reach increasing numbers of affluent young men. As Stuart says: ’Emap is

building partnerships with advertisers targeting men as it has done with

women’s titles, by using reader offers and promotions.’



Despite this, Moloney believes some advertisers have responded too

slowly.



’FHM and Loaded sell pretty much the same number of copies as Marie

Claire and Cosmo, yet they attract half the ad revenue. Advertisers need

to wake up and realise the opportunity,’ he says.



Most buyers agree there is plenty of growth left in this market. The

latest figures indicate that the entire men’s market is 50 per cent up

in circulation terms and it shows little sign of easing up. FHM’s

editor, Mike Soutar, is convinced his magazine can reach the million

mark. Over at Loaded, his counterpart, the maverick James Brown, is not

to be outdone: ’The frightening thing is when I do my next magazine,’ he

says. You have been warned.



THE LOADED STORY



April 94 Loaded launches. Liz Hurley appears in first ’Most Wanted’

feature and is soon photographed in ’that dress’. Circulation is

64,000



May 95 James Brown wins PPA Editor of the Year award



Aug 95 Overtakes GQ to become best-selling men’s monthly with an ABC of

127,700



Nov 95 Brown is Editors’ Editor of the Year at the British Society of

Magazine Editors awards



Jan 96 Breaks 200,000 circulation barrier



Feb 96 Brown takes a holiday. Tarka the otter edits for a month May 96

Wins PPA Magazine of the Year Oct 96 Breaks 300,000 circulation

barrier



Nov 96 James Brown wins second BSME Editor of the Year award



THE FHM STORY



1985 For Him Magazine launched by Tayvale Publishing. Distributed in

clothes shops



90 Launches quarterly on to newsstands. Sells under 50,000 copies



92 To ten issues a year



93 Name change: FHM



June 94 Bought by Emap Metro. Editor is Francis Cottam



July 94 Mike Soutar, ex-editor of Smash Hits, becomes editor



Feb 95 ABC figure of 80,000 for July-Dec 94



Sept 95 Frank Skinner is last male coverstar. Sales dive



Oct 95 100 sexiest women in the world supplement. Breaks 100,000

circulation



Apr 96 Gillian Anderson issue sells out in days May 96 Breaks the

300,000 barrier



Feb 97 FHM is best-selling men’s monthly.



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