These days you're no more likely to find a chocolatier in Knightsbridge than outside the ground at Hull Kingston Rovers.
So how can good old Cadbury re-assert itself as the nation's and everyman's favourite chocolate? Well, one thing the British appreciate is something to talk about other than the weather - such as an interesting ad.
Here they have a very interesting one, courtesy of Cadbury. No hard sell, no chest-beating - in spite of the presence of the gorilla. Nothing but pure joy. And I'm not just lazily referring to the endline.
Such entertainment could result in even a weedkiller being taken closer to the nation's heart. So what could it do for a product that tastes nice and already has a place there? Cadbury Dairy Milk has, after all, provided us with solace and cheer through two world wars, a miner's strike and more than our fair share of penalty shoot-outs. It has given us an almost Pavlovian response to the colour purple, and the glass-and-a-half claim is as familiar and reassuring to the older ones among us as the fact that Skegness is bracing.
All that could sound a bit tired and backward-looking, so Cadbury, justifiably as market leader, has chosen to explore the generic benefit of chocolate as a source of happiness per se. Over the past few years, the results of this have been slightly weird, strangely anarchic even, but ultimately they've missed. Whereas along comes the gorilla and a subtle shift from happiness to joy, and, as I've personally witnessed, it's a hit in the pub and on the bus and half a million hits on the internet.
Magic, yes, but not a formula. Cadbury Dairy Milk now has a chance of standing for moments of joy over and above any of your poncey foreign chocolate, through eschewing formulae. A rather brilliant client has found itself a new agency in Fallon, treated it like a fantastic new set of drums and, most brilliantly of all, allowed itself to play.