McDonald's is running commercials extolling the virtues of healthy eating and exercising and the Advertising Association has gone into overdrive, dispatching spokespeople for the current multitude of fat-fuelled debates.
This is not quite the tack Russell Davies, the Wieden & Kennedy planning director, is taking. In fact, he has set up a whole website that seems devoted to furthering the cause of blocked arteries.
On his site, www.eggbaconchipsandbeans.com, Davies sets out reviews of greasy-spoon cafes up and down the country. Always opting for the same meal, he passes judgment on not only the food but the ambience and cleanliness of the place. "I set up the site about a year ago really to rationalise my love of fried food," he says. On another site (www.agoodplaceforacupofteaandathink.com), Davies reviews cafes' tea-making.
Even in our Atkins- and detox-obsessed world, the sites have not gone unnoticed and Davies has been approached by a publisher wanting to turn them into a book.
He is unsurprised and believes the greasy spoon is the eating place of the future. "There are all these fantastic cafes in London and everyone goes to The Ivy. Why the fuck are they doing that?" he says. Hmm, well exactly?