Barker and Ralston did an interesting piece of research recently.
The agency’s new-business director, Sue Aitken, likes champagne,
apparently. So she went on a champagne crawl around six top London
hostelries, armed with a measuring jug and a bunch of eager colleagues,
to find which offered the best value for money/volume/ambience
combination - for the benefit of clients, naturally.
The results are as follows. The Atlantic Bar came in last (pounds 6 for
a measly 130ml glass in an overcrowded setting); Mezzo was second to
last (pounds 5.95 for a 125ml glass of house, although the menu claimed
it was 165ml), and Dell ’Ugo was third to last at pounds 4.75 for a
140ml glass, although it scored well for having ‘great atmosphere and
But best all round, for good value (pounds 3.75 for 150ml) and top
atmosphere, was Soho Soho, with L’Odeon coming in second and Kettners a
The full research details can be procured from Barker and Ralston for
the usual princely sum (or, alternatively, a well-chilled glass of