The Insider's Guide to Cannes: From Moules to Michelin

As France is the home of fine cuisine, it would be criminal not to eat out whenever you can. You'll discover sumptuous dining on the Riveria to suit every pocket - for entertaining, refuelling or even an intimate tete-a-tete.


Chateau de la Chevre d'Or, Eze

If it's a romantic meal a deux you're after and money's no object, head for la Chevre d'Or in the village of Eze. A beautiful terrace looks out over the Med and it's a good half-hour drive from Cannes, so you can gaze into each other's eyes, away from the glare of the ad industry. High-class French cuisine is on the menu, so think fine Champagne and foie gras. Don't even think about it if you're a vegetarian wanting a bowel-cleansing nut roast. Expect to pay 150 euros a head.

Tetou, Golfe-Juan

Again, for 150 euros a head (and cash only, no cards accepted - an idiosyncrasy of several eateries on the French Riviera) you can have some of the finest bouillabaisse on the planet. The Marseille fish dish is accompanied by croutons and bread and is best digested with a few glasses of white wine. Tetou also does lobster if you're feeling flash. Confiture is the most requested desert on the menu, so don't peak too soon. Tetou is on the edge of Cannes away from the throng - a five-minute cab ride - but still near the sea. Book in advance.

Bacon, Cap d'Antibes

Bacon is a seafood restaurant half-an-hour taxi ride from La Croisette. Its location is faultless: you can watch the sun set across the bay towards old Antibes. Freshly caught fish is the dish of the day: the restaurant staff will show you a selection of the day's catch and you can pick the fish you fancy. Unlike many restaurants on the Riveria, where coffee is followed by a heart bypass operation, the fish at Bacon is prepared simply: grilled with herbs and olive oil rather than baked in artery-clogging sauces.


L'Oasis is the Le Gavroche of Cannes. The focus is on fine dining and it's not unusual for diners to order seven mouth-watering and wallet-battering courses. Don't bother with a table indoors, eat in the garden with wisteria creeping up the walls. A downside is the rather starchy service common to restaurants that are over-confident about their menu. But if you're a foodie in search of an amazing meal and a wine list the size of the Yellow Pages, L'Oasis is the place for you.

Hotel du Cap Eden Roc

Enjoy art deco glamour at this beautiful haven, about a 15-minute cab ride from La Croisette. Wolf down a sumptuous buffet lunch on the terrace overlooking the Med, then go for a dip in the swimming pool. Celebrities that have enjoyed the delights of Eden Roc's restaurant over the years include Julie Andrews, Michael Caine and Yul Brynner. Eden Roc fans from the ad world include Tiger Savage, M&C Saatchi's head of art, and McCann-Erickson's executive creative director, Robert Campbell.

BREAK THE BANK (100 euros)

La Colombe d'Or, Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Artists such as Matisse, Miro and Picasso used to paint in return for their bed and board at the Colombe d'Or, hence the amazing art on the wall of this Cannes favourite. The cuisine is unapologetically French and it's very much the "see and be seen" place of the festival, according to one industry regular. Book a cab back to Cannes when you arrive otherwise you might find yourself stranded in this gorgeous little village. Quelle horreur!

Le Moulin de Mougins

Tucked away in the pretty hills behind Cannes, Le Moulin de Mougins boasts an unfussy menu in a pretty location with candlelit tables on its terrace. If you're here on the Thursday, it's a who's who of American advertising as USA Today hosts a dinner for the good and the great. The views from the village are incredible, so get here before sunset to enjoy them before sampling the pleasures of light French cuisine. Mougins is about a 15-minute cab ride from La Croisette.

Le Cagnard, Haut de Cagnes

Only 15 minutes from Nice airport, Le Cagnard is bang in the middle of the Riviera between Monaco and Cannes. Don't go under-dressed: most men are required to wear jackets and ties, while it's not recommended for female guests to turn up in a sarong and flip-flops. The restaurant boasts a Renaissance-style painted ceiling and a terrace full of bougainvillaea during the week of the ad festival.

A BIT ON THE FLASH SIDE (50-100 euros)

Club 55

Rock up in your bikini for lunch James Bond-style at Club 55 in Saint Tropez. Club 55 is just an informal beach bar but it buzzes with directors, writers and producers. It's up to you how much you spend and food is more picnic-style rather than anything elaborate, so expect fruit and salad washed down with lashings of rose. Only lunch is served.

Comme Chez Soi

Unlike many top Riviera restaurants, the owners, Sophie Meissonnier and Jean-Luc Simon, do not possess the nonchalance of many fine French restaurantuers. It's cosy, not conceited, hence the name roughly translated as "home from home". Comme Chez Soi specialises in fish dishes and the wine list is superb. Another plus point is its location; it's off the Rue d'Antibes, near La Croisette, so you don't have to bother with taxis. A meal will set you back about 40 euros without wine but, if you do splash out, you could easily spend double that.

MODERATE (30-60 euros)

Le Baoli

It's worth going to Le Baoli for the decor alone. Wooden doors from an Indonesian temple set the tone for this French Asian restaurant. Enjoy sushi and sashimi on the "comptoir" menu: nine pieces of salmon or tuna sashimi for a mere 22 euros. The a la carte menu is a bit steeper: mains are between 20 and 30 euros, desserts are 10 euros. You can also hire it for private dinners or cocktail receptions. The terrace is particularly stunning.

Carlton Terrace

Only that incomprehensible ad from Japan that picks up a gold will divide opinion like the Carlton. Some think it's the biggest rip-off in Cannes, while others argue that you can get a reasonably priced lunch with the huge advantage of not having to move too far in the blistering midday sun. Service is not great, but it's mostly Americans accustomed to higher standards who think that. This place also kicks off the Cannes holy trinity: cocktails on the Carlton Terrace followed by late-night drinks at the Martinez and whatever you can get your hands on in the Gutter Bar.

Le Tantra

This is another fusion restaurant with a nightclub en suite, the Loft, an R&B and hip hop club. It tends to be full of trendy production types and arty French people smoking endless Gitanes. Savour the atmosphere as you plonk yourself down on velvet cubes and banquettes inside a Bedouin tent. Being a bit boho, it's more for a young and thrusting party posse than for a catch-up about how the network's been performing. Book in advance and you should be able to hold court from a big table in the garden.

CHEAP AND CHEERFUL (20-40 euros)

Cafe Roma

If, after a few days of foie gras and fancy liqueurs, you're craving a no-nonsense bowl of pasta, head for Cafe Roma. It offers French and Italian cuisine, so you have a reasonable choice of pasta, fish and meat dishes with the price per head starting from 20 euros. Cafe Roma's twin specialities are rum-based cocktails and an extensive ice-cream selection.

Luna Cafe

An Italian restaurant with a very reasonable prix fixe 20-euro menu offering salads, soups and pastas. A more expensive, French a la carte menu is also available, with calamari, veal and crepes. Shut on Saturday lunchtimes and all day Sunday.


A noisy, cheap pizza place on La Croisette, Vesuvio is something of a legend. More stomach-lining for a night's "networking" than haute cuisine to impress your clients.